I apologize in advance if this thread becomes extremely active and shows up on the newsletter too often.
I will frequently update this first post with FAQs, updates and relevant info.
I ask that posts to this thread only be help/support related to keep it neat and request that any mod delete irrelevant posts. This thread URL will be linked within my install manuals so hopefully this will help some people as well as bring some new faces to the board.
CJB Performance Electronics, Inc.
Installation Manual Links:
Turbo Timer 4 Manual
18V Interface Rev. B (new) Manual
18V Interface Rev. A (old) Manual
Turbo Timer 4 FAQ
Q: What is a 'Motor+' wire?
A: Pin 1 of the Turbo Timer needs to connect to a 'Motor +' wire. This is any of the two wires to the motors that are positive voltage when the vehicle is moving forward. It's usually red or orange. You may tap into this wire anywhere between the shifter and the motor.
Q: What switch do I use for the turbo button?
A: Any one you like as long as,
.1. it fits where you want to put it
.2. has a current rating of 200mA or greater
.3. Is a N.O. (normally open) Momentary switch. (not latching)
Here's some samples: Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3
Q: If I use a button with a built in LED, how do I hook that up?
A: Depends on the switch but typically you'd put +12v to the anode (+ side of the LED) and you can run the cathode (negative side of the LED) to pin 2 of the Turbo Timer so the LED lights up when the module is in 'Ready' state.
Click HERE for a sample diagram.
Q: Do I have to use the Battery Saver relay?
A: No. It's purely optional. Just secure the wire in pin 8 of the connector so it doesn't touch stuff.
Q: HOW do I use the Battery Saver relay?
A: Page 13 of the Turbo Timer install manual shows just how to do this. If you're using a separate battery for your accessories, that's okay. The diagram still applies. The Turbo Timer has to be powered by your 12V drive battery.
Q: I don't have a keyed ignition switch or anything like that. Is that a big deal?
A: Depends. If it's just sitting overnight, no. If it's sitting for a week it may drain your battery a bit. The Turbo Timer is always watching that Motor+ wire. This uses a little bit of energy. If you're not going to do an Ignition Switch mod, at least put a toggle switch inline with the Turbo Timer +12V supply line to cut its power when not in use. (this is the wire that connects to the "+12" tab of the Turbo Timer) A toggle (or latching push button) switch rated at 5A or more will be just fine.
Q: Can I use this for 24V?
A: Depends how you wire it up. Other people have successfully used the Turbo Timer for a 24V system. The important thing is that the timer itself only gets 12V.
Q: Looks like a lot of stuff can connect to pin 5. How do I hook 3 things up to one wire?
A: Junction blocks! (aka Terminal Strips) Sample 1 Sample 2 Sample 3
18V INTERFACE FAQ
Q: Where should I mount the board?
A: If you have the original Rev. A version, AS CLOSE TO THE BATTERIES AS PHYSICALLY POSSIBLE. Rev. A has the fuses on the board which in hindsight, was a bad idea. This means the wires from the batteries to the board are not protected.
If you have the new Rev. B version, it's up to you. I have removed the fuses from the 18V Interface board in Rev. B and you are responsible for installing your own fuses or circuit breakers at the batteries. This offers more flexibility of where the board can safely be located.
Q: Do I have to use the Key/Ignition switch?
A: Yes. You don't have to have a fancy key switch or anything but you do need some sort of switch. Toggle, Latching Push Button, etc. rated for 1A or more will all be fine.
Q: Can I use this on 24V or higher?
A: No. Don't try it. This is strictly for a 12+6, 18V system.
Q: How do I work the charger tabs?
A: You should install some kind of charge port. I personally, am a fan of THESE due to the spring loaded cover on the vehicle side port, and the chrome look. Connect each one of the port's pins to a charger tab on the 18V Interface Board (you should write it down or make a drawing). Connect wires to the pins of the port's mating connector and hook your chargers to those wires so +12 from the charger goes to the +12 charge tab on the board, etc.
Q: How do I hook up lights?
A: HERE is a diagram showing how you would utilize the + and - 12_ACC tabs for lights and stuff. Not all necessary connections for the 18V interface board are shown here, just the ones relating to your lights.
The Turbo Timer module experiences issues when used in combination with a ML Toys brake reduction module. Not sure why, looking into it. I don't know if it's limited to the ML Toys module or if it will happen with any brake resistor. I've only heard of issues from one person, so who knows...
Also, I had a customer successfully use an 18V Interface board for 6+6 using 2 6V relays. Just another option for beginners. Never thought it wouldn't work, just never tried it myself.
Finally wired the modules up. turbo timer and interface board.
Everything worked fine, powerwheels is in the air hasn't been ridden in yet.
Had it work in Turbo mode and SS mode, 3 LED's etc. Turbo push switch.. on off switch.
Go out to the garage this morning to finish it off and tidy it up.
Charged the batteries up.
Turned the power on, and all the LED's come on at once. Doesn't work in Turbo mode.
Disconnected everything, except for one battery and the on/off switch.
When I turn it on still all the LED's on both boards turn on.
Go back to the original wiring and the car and motors work fine.
Any ideas of clues as to what to try or do etc.
The 5 amp fuse on the board is still good.
Thanks for any pointers... was getting excited to dump the kiddo in and really try it out.
If I have the car in the slow mode.. it sends 12 volts to both motors .... I'm pretty sure when it was first set up it was still only getting 6 volts to the motors.
In fast mode it blows the 10amp fuse I have inline to the motors.