**Finished!** SUPER Super Power... 36V Dual ESC & Lighting

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Jul 23, 2014 8:42 am

Super Powers aren't known for their reliability, and this thing was REALLY driving me nuts with it's intermittent levels of operation. It finally went under the knife and as the saying goes, go BIG or go HOME! :twisted: :roll:

It's probably never leaving home so I may as well go BIG! :roll: Eventual plans include 4wd, but I haven't been able to locate everything I need so it's staying 2wd drive for now. Here is my basic layout and I'll add pics as I go along.

edit: It's gotten too big, has to be spread over three diagrams now! :o :o

I'm mounting everything on this composite board and then it will get hung beneath the seats. I'm going to cut out the basket that held the original circuit board. We shall see if ESC heat becomes an issue right in that spot, 1600 watts is enough to heat a frozen pizza! :lol: :roll:

(Edit: Diagram incorrectly listed LBD-14 :oops: , now reads correctly 8-) )

taz11 · Post by **taz11** » Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:05 am

....popcorn smiley........ 8-)

jonesee · Post by **jonesee** » Wed Jul 23, 2014 11:45 pm

O man, that thing is going to scoot!!

not sure what is more impressive this project or your diagram? they both rock!! keep it coming!!

sall · Post by **sall** » Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:29 am

Nice! Do you have a link for the relays you are using. The Single Pole relays that is.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Jul 24, 2014 8:39 am

sall wrote:Nice! Do you have a link for the relays you are using. The Single Pole relays that is.

http://www.delcity.net/store/Skirted-Re ... et/p_73582

We use them at work so I had easy access. Otherwise I would have gone with all DPDT relays

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Jul 28, 2014 9:46 am

Well, working on knick-knacks but not getting much of anywhere. I really want to wire up the board with all quick connects, but I checked delivery on the batch I ordered and it's FIVE TO SIX WEEKS! :x :x :evil: :x I'm accustomed to waiting for the slow boat from China, but this shipping company must still be using SAIL POWER! :x :x :x

I've found a couple places selling the stock type connectors (like TNC Scooters), but it's either going to be $70 after freight :x (I refuse to pay that much!) or I can buy a bag of misc connectors for much less, but I can't get the seller to provide any details as to whether or not it even contains both male and female of the various sizes. I'm almost positive if I order it, it will have nothing more than the same ends that are on the ESC :evil:

So I'm sitting there staring at everything. I could have it up and running in no time IF I COULD JUST GET SOME PARTS! Still on the fence about forgetting the quick connects and just hardwiring it all in. In the meantime, I started installing my lights. I went simple with Eagle Eyes and round and square led chips. I'm pretty sure I'll install a strobe controller I have just for fun.

If a pair of outer wheel drivers happen to turn up, I'll go 4x4. If not I'll stick with 2wd until they do.

I went pic heavy, but I often use the solutions others have come up with so it's only fair to pass on my examples (good or bad :? :lol: )

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GR40LSC · Post by **GR40LSC** » Sat Aug 02, 2014 9:05 pm

Hmm, I have my super power sitting here and I have two of those controllers. I was planning on just running it with one of them, but I think it really needs more power than one can provide. Now I may have to copy you...

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Aug 06, 2014 7:59 am

Pieces are starting to roll in, hopefully I can start soon. It's definitely snowballing into an even larger more complex project! :shock:

36v to 12v step down converter. Rather than using resistors, I'll use this for the control side of my switches, relays, and indicator lights.

Battery Saver 2.0 Courtesy of CJB

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Aug 07, 2014 1:47 pm

Just worked out adding CJB's Battery saver into my diagram. Adjustments have been made on the first post.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Fri Aug 08, 2014 10:55 am

And the lighting diagram. An LED on the dash will light any time the ESC is active. The rest of the lighting is controlled thorugh a double throw toggle switch. Center is off, one direction turns on all lights solid. The other direction leaves headlights, ground effect, and interior floorboard lighting on solid, but passes the side markers, bumper fog lights, roll bar fog lights, and tail lights through a strobe module. All these lights will be combined left / right for the strobe functions.

12vwiz · Post by **12vwiz** » Sat Aug 09, 2014 9:36 am

I was scanning over your lighting diagram and noticed that you have the left and right flash outputs seeing each other. This would cause problems with their individual flash patterns. Placing diodes on the B+ from toggle at each terminal strip should resolve issue.

Looking forward to seeing this baby roll - nice!!

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Aug 11, 2014 8:31 am

12vwiz wrote:I was scanning over your lighting diagram and noticed that you have the left and right flash outputs seeing each other. This would cause problems with their individual flash patterns. Placing diodes on the B+ from toggle at each terminal strip should resolve issue.

Looking forward to seeing this baby roll - nice!!

Thanks! That would have been frustrating :x These diagrams have gone through at least a dozen revisions so far. I just realized I had to move my key switch as it would not have cut power to anything the way I had it.

At least I'm slowly starting to make some progress. I'm still waiting for proper crimpers to arrive before I make any wiring connections, but I'm getting things in place. Many parts of this build have been inspired by (sounds nicer than stolen from :twisted: :roll: ) Gratefull Dad. Among the "borrowed" ideas is placing the 3rd 18ah battery above the rear bumper. I had struggled with battery placement and hadn't been able to make anything other than 3 10ah batteries fit under the hood. I'm afraid the 10ah batteries just don't have the amp delivery to make this puppy pop wheelies :twisted: so I really wanted to fit the 18ah's.

The rear battery placement cost me some control board space, but it should be well worth it. I'm also coming to the realization that with so many components involved, making this wiring look pretty is going to be well beyond my abilities... :x :x :x :roll: :lol:

Here's my 3rd or 4th mockup...

sall · Post by **sall** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 3:03 pm

Can you explain the diagram with the battery saver circuit. I'm trying to make sense of it. :shock:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Aug 13, 2014 6:59 pm

sall wrote:Can you explain the diagram with the battery saver circuit. I'm trying to make sense of it. :shock:

CJB comes up with some great stuff. He has an instruction manual for "normal" installations, but what fun would that be? :lol:

Basically, the start button activates the main power relay completing the battery circuit to the ESC. It also activates the battery saver module which maintains power to the main power relay keeping everything powered up. After about 5 minutes of inactivity (based on voltage input from a switch inside the throttle pedal), the saver module shuts down the main power relay, which then cuts power back to itself. It can only be reactivated by pressing the "start" button. Also, the inline key cuts power to the main power relay shutting things down too.

An advantage of using a main power relay is that it will shut down a runaway ESC in the event it fails. It's also great because my kids are notorious for forgetting to turn the key switches off when they are done which drains batteries pretty quickly :x

sall · Post by **sall** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 3:33 pm

Thanks. I understand the battery saver feature. I was just unsure how you were re-activating the circuit after power down. I figured it was from the push to start labeled button. The 'push to start button' is a momentary switch?

I did talk with CJB about the module after I saw it on your page here. You have the prototype for ESC setups IRRC. I was interested as I am working on an MCU unit that controls lighting and battery saver feature. Still working on that at the moment as well.

Interesting about the runaway. Is this a common occurance with these cheap controllers? Sorrry not trying to jack your build thread!

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Aug 14, 2014 7:05 pm

Yup, momentary switch. All of this wiring is just duplicating what the Superpower already did stock! :x Plus side though it should be more reliable and a heck of a lot more fun! :D

In regards to the ESC failure, it has been documented a few times here on the forums. It will fail in the "wide-open" position which can be dangerous. A common safeguard is to have a separate brake pedal with a brake relay. This can stop the ride if the ESC were to fail. I took it a step further with the main power relay. When the key is turned "off" all power shuts down so if the ESC failed, there is no danger of the ride jumping forward each time the kid lets off of the brake pedal.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 10:23 am

Finally got a few minutes to play with it again. I basically just glued all my light assemblies and chips together. I saw another member do an awesome dash lighting setup. I gave it a shot by putting led's behind the dash and then drilling holes for the light to come through. The effect only came out about 50%. I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to paint the inside of the dash black to block all the light from bleeding through. Bad thing is I'm going to have to try to work around the lights I've set in place. :x

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jonesee · Post by **jonesee** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 12:41 pm

awesome lighting job! those helping hand jigs are worth their weight in gold. Looking forward to the next update

Brother Al · Post by **Brother Al** » Mon Aug 18, 2014 2:01 pm

:shock: Wow! Just Wow!... you werent kidding, darn impressive work!

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Aug 25, 2014 9:52 am

One step forward, two steps back right?

Got some painting done. Absolutely LOVE Rustoleum 2X. Had never used it before. The blue shot beautifully, I had some trouble with drips on the orange, but I think it's because I was doing such short passes and I probably wasn't modulating the trigger very well. I've gotta wait a couple days before going back to attempt to tape a stripe.

TRIED to move on to electrical. Those stupid Chinese Molex whatever connectors are a pain in the butt to crimp! In the past I've ended up using needle nose pliers and solder for ugly iffy connections. This time I wanted to do it right, so I ordered some ratcheting crimpers, waited like A MONTH for them to make the slow voyage from China, and then, THEY DON'T WORK! They just mash up the terminal and it gets stuck in the die. :evil: :evil: :evil:

What have the rest of you found that works? Anyway, adding insult to injury, the battery connectors I got from TNC were molded wrong, solid plastic where the blade is supposed to go :evil: I'm back to the drawing board, not sure if I want to try again for a working set of crimpers, or if I should just chop all the ends off and solder my connections. I'm reluctant to do so cause I'm quite certain I'm going to end up smoking an ESC during the build process and I was hoping for easy replacement.

Till next time...

cantdrivestock · Post by **cantdrivestock** » Mon Aug 25, 2014 7:07 pm

Rustoleum 2x is the way to go. You just have to get used to the volume of paint that comes out. Depending on your paint coat thickness, make sure you give the paint an ample amount of time to cure or it will react. If you can let it bake in the sun.

Project looks awesome btw!

jonesee · Post by **jonesee** » Mon Aug 25, 2014 11:10 pm

that sucks on the connectors from tnc, I have had defective breakers from them before and almost every key switch has failed from them!!

I have their crimp pliers and have no problem with them http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=469
they are out of stock but I did want to make sure that you noticed that the plier die has two different sizes, the smaller end is for the wire crimp and the slightly bigger side grabs the wire sheathing.

I second the project awesomeness :mrgreen:

I only use 2x now myself

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:05 am

cantdrivestock wrote:Rustoleum 2x is the way to go. You just have to get used to the volume of paint that comes out. Depending on your paint coat thickness, make sure you give the paint an ample amount of time to cure or it will react. If you can let it bake in the sun.

Project looks awesome btw!

Thanks. My next project with 2X will surely come out better. I had just sprayed the inside of the dashboard and some other parts with Fusion black. It was 10,000 passes to get decent coverage on parts that were primarily already black. Then I moved to the 2X and was blown away with the coverage. Logic was moving slowly so I ended up going waaay too thick instead of allowing dry time between coats. I checked on it yesterday, about 24 hours later and it was still a bit tacky. Of course, relative humidity is like 95% here year round so that makes it a bit tough to start with. :x Anyway, I'm never going back to fusion. (Anyone want to buy about 10 new cans of fusion I had stockpiled :? :? :oops: :x :lol: )

that sucks on the connectors from tnc, I have had defective breakers from them before and almost every key switch has failed from them!!

I have their crimp pliers and have no problem with them http://tncscooters.com/index.php?route= ... uct_id=469
they are out of stock but I did want to make sure that you noticed that the plier die has two different sizes, the smaller end is for the wire crimp and the slightly bigger side grabs the wire sheathing.

TNC responded right away and they are replacing the bad connectors :D The crimp pliers are another story. TNC has not had them in stock for quite some time. I searched and searched and finally found the ones I got, they looked identical but came from China. When I got them I saw they could only handle max 18ga. Unfortunately they don't even do that. I think their is too much slack in the teeth because the wings don't curl, they just smash straight down and jam. The Snap-On truck had a pair but they were $90 something dollars, I'm not about to do that. Del City has a pair for just under $40 that might work. I'm SOOOO tempted to just splice and solder the thing! But then I wouldn't get to use my pretty relay plugs!

It's just money right? :roll: :x :lol:

Brother Al · Post by **Brother Al** » Tue Aug 26, 2014 1:58 pm

How about trying GM Weatherpack connectors?... they are simple, fairly cheap, quick release/connect, & the connections are very water resistant. Im a GM guy and these things last forever too.

If your're on a budget, hit up the local junkyards and you can get tons of them, along with whole sections of wiring that can be cut down to suit your needs. As a bonus, you can source convoluted tubing in an assortment of diameters, along with hold downs, tube end clasps, and T junction clasps... usually junkyards will give it to you really cheaply or "Pad" your purchase of them with something bigger... like say, '78-88 GM aluminum brake drums or whatever you want.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 7:54 am

I got plenty of these connectors too, but I don't feel like having to replace both ends just to have a quick connect. Plus it doesn't solve my problem with needing to crimp the relay side plugs.

I ordered some better crimpers (more expensive :x ) and we will see how they work. In the meantime, I gave it 3 days dry time and went for a stripe. I hate taping stripes, seems to take me 20 tries to get them straight(ish), but does that stop me from attempting them??? :roll: Paint didn't seem to peel, so far so good. We shall see what the end result is in a couple more days when i pull the masking off. And btw, these are my blurriest pictures ever! That's what I get for attempting to do everything in low light :x :roll: :lol:

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jonesee · Post by **jonesee** » Thu Aug 28, 2014 9:30 am

is is just me or does the stripe in the rear look narrower? don't ask me how I know about placing tape on the wrong side of the reference line :oops:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 9:28 am

jonesee wrote:is is just me or does the stripe in the rear look narrower? don't ask me how I know about placing tape on the wrong side of the reference line :oops:

I'm counting on the roll bar, rear bumper, and seats blocking any clear view of the stripe therefore making size comparisons difficult ;) :? :ugeek:

landon · Post by **landon** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 2:55 pm

You might want to consider EL wire for the dash lighting, TC. You can get some really sweet effects with that stuff!

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Fri Aug 29, 2014 5:09 pm

landon wrote:You might want to consider EL wire for the dash lighting, TC. You can get some really sweet effects with that stuff!

I hadn't thought of that. I looked into it quite some time ago when admiring your ski mobile. I know there was something about them that made me reconsider using it. Do they run off an odd voltage?

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:08 am

More pictures. And what project would be complete without some frustration? :x ;)

Painted bumper with lights. I originally had white eagle eyes, but the lenses weren't tinted enough, they didn't look amber and red, so I ordered some amber and red eagle eyes, and it came out much better.

Now for the paint resuslts, voila, one offset stripe!

Oh no! What's this? :o The painters tape was stronger than the paint??? :evil: Yes, my blue basecoat did not adhere well and in so many places it came off with the tape.

More tape, recoats, so so results. Oh well, it won't take my kids a day to run into something and scratch it up anyway :x

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Now if the dumb wire crimpers would just show up and I good give it some "go" along with the "show"... :P

x-tremeOCK · Post by **x-tremeOCK** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 8:39 am

Great project! Lots of good info and I like that you show the bumps in the road too. Gives me inspiration! 8-)

But dude...don't you ever sleep, where do you find time for all of this? :shock: ... :lol:

X

landon · Post by **landon** » Tue Sep 02, 2014 9:11 am

toycrusher wrote:
landon wrote:You might want to consider EL wire for the dash lighting, TC. You can get some really sweet effects with that stuff!
I hadn't thought of that. I looked into it quite some time ago when admiring your ski mobile. I know there was something about them that made me reconsider using it. Do they run off an odd voltage?

They require an inverter, but there are 12V inverters that are pretty cheap.

cantdrivestock · Post by **cantdrivestock** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 1:13 am

I usually end up using vinyl for all my stripes. I can never get painters tape to give me a nice edge. There is always some type of bleeding with it. I try to give the paint at least 2 weeks to fully cure before doing anything with it. Still looks good though. I wish I had the time and money to devote to a epic project like this.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 7:40 am

I wish I had the time and money to devote to a epic project like this.

:shock: :shock: :shock:

Uh :?: This is just some rattle cans and wiring connectors. You build wreck-it-ralph go karts and custom headlight assemblies! I want YOUR time (and abilities) to build epic projects! :lol: :lol: :lol:

You do make me feel better about my tape lines ;) Guess I'm gonna have to learn how to use vinyl. I did get my lights glued back in the dash. I like it much better with the inside of the dash painted black, but I may decide to add some EL light as Landon suggests. Question on that, can you just cut it to length? Is it possible to splice into the excess you cut off?

landon · Post by **landon** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 8:03 am

toycrusher wrote:Question on that, can you just cut it to length? Is it possible to splice into the excess you cut off?

I think you can cut it to length, up to a point.
Here's a good resource:
http://www.elwire.net
Check out their FAQs.
Looking good so far, man!

sall · Post by **sall** » Wed Sep 03, 2014 9:31 am

I would opt for an EL panel and light the dash from the back side. You didn't really plan that from the beginning though. You can edgle light acrylic for smooth lighting as well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EL-Panel-Dark-B ... 20c99c51db

EL Wire/Converters are cheap though. See if you like it!

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Sep 04, 2014 9:40 am

You all win. I ordered up some EL light. I'll see if I can cut it to just a 12" piece. Also if it can be spliced successfully. From what I read, the wires are quite tiny so we will see how good I am :lol:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Sat Sep 06, 2014 8:03 am

What a difference quality tools make! Got a ratcheting crimper from del city and these beautiful crimps come out! :D
Finally moving forward, it's not pretty but it is getting crowded! :lol:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Sep 08, 2014 8:42 am

I'm actually starting to worry, I still have lot's more components to mount and I'm out of room! :!: :o :roll:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Sep 10, 2014 9:56 am

I'm not sure what I want to do with the EL wire. I ordered up a couple rolls and drivers. One driver has very weak output, barely lights up the string. The other driver lights the strings up bright, but makes a horrible high pitch whine while turned on :x I'm undecided on whether I want to try to drop from 12v to 3v and put up with the whine just for some extra lighting in the dash. On that note, I couldn't find any specs on current draw of the driver. What size resistors would I need to bring the volts down to 3v if I did decide to use it?

cantdrivestock · Post by **cantdrivestock** » Fri Sep 12, 2014 2:09 am

Thanks TC but most of my builds are just refurbs, rattle can, and vinyl jobs. I wish I could have people passionate enough to request such an awesome build. I know you've got some coin wrapped up in all those electronics. I love your electric board layout nice and clean and well layed out.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Sep 15, 2014 7:58 am

Had a little more time to work on it and I got my main board finished up. I'm going to have to move the CJB battery saver to inside the dash as the board is full. I bought a batch of weatherpack connectors, but I don't have the tool to disassemble them. As such, I stuck with the basic open connectors since they are a piece of cake to move wires around in the event I mixed some up :? :lol:

Also a quick plug, I absolutely LOVE this little butane soldering iron. I don't have particularly steady hands and trying to solder any heavy gauge wire with a wimpy 30w electric soldering iron was frustrating! With this puppy, just crank the heat up and get to work! :lol: 8-)

Anybody have any idea what size resistor I would need to drop from 12v down to 3v for the EL wire? I think I'll use it if I can get the seller to send me a working driver!

sall · Post by **sall** » Mon Sep 15, 2014 5:39 pm

Not sure on what resistor size. It will get hot though. Maybe choose a 3v linear voltage regulator(or adjustable) then you need input/output caps. That option will get hot as well dropping 9v. A 12v to 3v stepdown is probably your easiest option.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-DC-Converter ... 232c4d1e1d

Same as the 36v to 12v you are using. Well since your 36v to 12v has a heatsink I am guessing it gets hot. I doubt that 12v to 3v stepdown I linked will.

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:27 am

More painstakingly slow progress. It's basically an issue of; sit down - where am I? Ok, need to run this wire from here to here - consult diagram - no, it was from here to there - ok, make connection - get called off to avert disaster kids are causing - come back - where was I? Oh yeah, from here to there - No, Doh! it was there to HERE :x - Ok, lets fix that - on to next connection - (Loud crash in background) "KIDS! WHAT ARE YOU DOING OVER THERE!" - where was I?........ :roll:

So got my battery saver components mounted. Lots of wiring still to go and I haven't even made it to the light control diagram! Once I get it strung I'll tidy it up.

sall · Post by **sall** » Mon Sep 22, 2014 9:55 am

toycrusher wrote:More painstakingly slow progress. It's basically an issue of; sit down - where am I? Ok, need to run this wire from here to here - consult diagram - no, it was from here to there - ok, make connection - get called off to avert disaster kids are causing - come back - where was I? Oh yeah, from here to there - No, Doh! it was there to HERE :x - Ok, lets fix that - on to next connection - (Loud crash in background) "KIDS! WHAT ARE YOU DOING OVER THERE!" - where was I?........ :roll:

So got my battery saver components mounted. Lots of wiring still to go and I haven't even made it to the light control diagram! Once I get it strung I'll tidy it up.

Story of my project as well! haha.

Which hall effect pedal do you plan on using?

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Sep 22, 2014 10:29 am

I'm using the original pedal. It's a 5 wire setup so it works perfect for the build

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Wed Oct 01, 2014 9:15 am

Got the battery compartment tied up. I'm trying to keep everything modular, I hate tearing a whole project apart just to get to one component. TIP: don't buy Chinese fake AMP connectors. It wasted over an hour trying to get the locking tab retainers to seat and finally had to give up. I'm locking the terminals in place with hot glue! :roll:

I'm hoping I followed my diagrams properly and took good notes of my adjustments 'cause this jumble of wires is going to be a pain to troubleshoot! :roll:

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Thu Oct 09, 2014 9:46 am

First off, I love this site! The interaction with other modders, seeing their projects, difficulties, successes, it's great. It can encourage you to make your own projects, or in my case, get you off your butt and back onto the project you started three months ago! :lol: :lol: :roll:

I was able to get a couple solid hours of work into a 5-hour period. Spent the other 3 hours chasing down the kids to recover the tools, wires, connectors, and other pieces they were insistent on pilfering. :x

My backbone wiring is all in place. It's been a pain, but I've built it all modular with connectors for each component to make disassembly and troubleshooting that will certainly be required :? a little easier. All I have left is the dashboard harness to build. It includes the key and push-to-start switches for the "battery saver 2.0", lighting DPDT switch, strobe controller, and EL-wire driver. Then I get to string miles of wire for the 25 different led light bars, chips, strips, modules, and assemblies I have scattered throughout this little monster. :o :o :?

Another 20 hours or so of work and I'll find out whether or not it runs! :x :twisted:

Test fitting stuff

Had to add even MORE to the board

I definitely need to laminate my diagrams when I'm done and save them because I will NEVER be able to trace this wiring when I'm done.

jonesee · Post by **jonesee** » Sun Oct 12, 2014 1:15 pm

Keep up the momentum!! your factory looking work will pay off in the long run. Cannot wait to see the modding marvel in action!! Looking forward to the first test run!! Isnt it crazy how long wiring can take? I spend more time looking for tools and parts that actual progress, blame that on not having a big enough shop (and lack of putting tools away before the kids snatch them)

toycrusher · Post by **toycrusher** » Mon Oct 20, 2014 9:49 am

Still plucking away at backbone wiring. Put one of my dash connectors in, the other is lighting output and haven't gotten there yet. Started reassembling and routing lighting. Need a bit more work before I can tighten everything up soild.