Modified Power Wheels Forum

Sedzy

<t>Good catch Maxpower!! I've got a few different arduinos kicking around, and I'm currently using the 32-bit Due for the F150. I've stopped using the basic INT/BYTE variable declarations, and have switched to uint8_t/uint16_t instead. I've spent way too much time troubleshooting problems...

Sedzy

<r>I saw this on eBay. It's BLE so you'll get good range with it. It's made of 100% genuine Chineesium so take the quality with a grain of salt, but this looks like what your looking for. I'm very doubtful you'll get the auto-switch when it goes out of range though.. You'd have to toggle the relay m...

Sedzy

:) No problem.

Sedzy

<r>If the Controller outputs 4V, substitue a 4-5Vdc Relay in place of each light, and run the lights from the relays. That way you can feed in whatever voltage you need and pass that to the lights. If you take the relay route (which will be an easy fix) you need to make sure you add flyba...

Sedzy

<t>Using a BMS is still recommended. A cell can have a good new capacity spec, but still be defective and result in a really short lifespan. Then your pack is out of balance, that only gets worse with every charge. While the LiFePo4 cells are considerably safer than Li-ion, they are still...

Sedzy

<t>I think these are what your talking about. I've never tried to pull the terminals out, but there is a locking tab you need to bend back in so you can pull it out. If your going to put them back in after, you need to bend that tab back out, so it catches the lip to lock it in. There is ...

Sedzy

<t>The busbar terminals will help keep things easy to manage, but they do take up space.. Label the strip with a sharpie, what terminals are what wire. Try to minimize the wire runs by running BUS WIRES to/from common points. So in your dash with 3 switches, if all your lights run on 12V,...

Sedzy

<t>Sweet Ram. I love the live axle. The 2 extra wires off the back of the pot will most likely be the ON/OFF switch. I assume it clicks when fully counter-clockwise.... It's just a SPST contact built into the pot. To use it either rewire it to a SPST switch in the ram for on/off control, ...

Sedzy

<t>It can be done, but not a simple swap. A few things need to be considered. 1. Voltage. Your RC gear probably runs at 7.2V not 12V. 2. The ESC will probably be for a BRUSHLESS motor. Your Jeep will have a BRUSHED motor. 3. The ESC uses what is called RC PPM for throttle i...

Sedzy

<r>I bit the bullet, and ordered some parts from digikey for my pedal. I was concerned about the pedal failing and causing the truck to go full throttle. (even though a failure will most likely result in 0V) After stripping it down to a bare PCB, and cross-referencing the Chinese knockoff...

Sedzy

<t>One thing I thought of right away from the original post..... The DeWalt battery. They don't have alot of current (compared to an AGM battery) and there may be a thermal breaker inside it (I don't know) My 18V batteries are less than 5Ah, and if you pull 5A out of them, they'll die fast. You may ...

Sedzy

That will do. 9Ah is the same as the stocker battery. I'd go more Ah Capacity for a longer runtime. (if you have the space for a larger battery)

Sedzy

<t>Be weary of eBay batteries. The Chinese parts are almost always over stated on specs. See if you can source a battery from a reputable dealer. But any 12V AGM will do. Double check dimensions, of where your going to put it, and the size of the battery. That charger will do just fine, a...

Sedzy

<t>As an example.. 1x 12v battery on high, puts the MOTORS in parallel. The motors then both see the full 12V battery, and spin according to the 12v. 1x 12v battery on low, puts the MOTORS in series. The 12v from the battery is across both motors stacked inline together, so they only...

Sedzy

Your info is backwards for Series/Parallel.

In series, add the voltages, current source stays the same.
In parallel, add the currents, the voltages stay the same.

Sedzy

<t>This may help you troubleshoot. I did this from my F150 before I completely stripped it down, and hacked the harness. I'm not sure if all F150s have the same wiring color code or not, but I wrote them down off mine. The schematic is captured with the gas pedal [off] and the shifte...

Sedzy

<r>Nice lab. <E>:)</E> I figured you were in the industry. I'm the same, but in prototype quantities, so no justification for production equipment. It's all done by hand. Even under 20x, a 0201 passive is hard to solder, let alone build up a board. Some days, I wish we had even a simple P&P mach...

Sedzy

<r><QUOTE author="CJB"><s>[quote="CJB"]</s>quick update, Got all the boards through the surface mount process last Thursday. Now I just have to solder in the connectors and stuff, program them, coat and install in housing. Hope to ship the pre-orders this Friday the latest. Thi...

Sedzy

Sweet product. Just read the thread on the v3. Huge thumbs up CJB!

Where do you send for boards? I'm pricing sources for both 2 and 4 layers, and it looks like OSH Park is still the best option.

Sedzy

<t>If you pulled out a 15 Tooth pinion, you should put a 15 back in, or they won't mesh properly (unless you go full scale mod, and modify the housings) the 0.8MODs are the metric equivalents to the SAE 32Pitch gear size. They are interchangeable, as long as the bore is correct for your m...

Sedzy

<r><QUOTE author="wired"><s>[quote="wired"]</s>The specs look good. The fact that it has "right" imprinted on the side makes me leary due to the thought that it implies motor timing. At least that would be my concern before purchasing. Maybe the seller could clear that up. you may already know but i...

Sedzy

<r>I don't profess to be any expert or anything, but I know my way around a circuit board. <E>:)</E> The raspberry pi is a single board computer, with a simplified interface so people without an engineering degree can program it. (still not for the faint of heart though) The Arduino was m...

Sedzy

<r>I know this is a stale thread, but I saw this thread from momsmechanic original post. Great work by the way! In the original post the topic of motor speeds came up.. I'm using these; I have them on the front spindle to get a true speed regardless of wheel spin. Just glue the magnet(s) ...

Sedzy

<t>I have one of those too. Mine is still working under bench testing, but ya, there isn't much in there. Digikey PN: 480-2006-ND looks like the right one. Open up your pedal again, and peel the silicone off the sensor, and see if you can see a part number to cross reference against this ...

Sedzy

<r>Sounds like your on the right path. The circuit breaker is more than a good idea! If something doesn't melt out, your just turning your wiring into a mobile toaster. When she flips from FWD to REV, the current draw will be enormous! (effectively a momentary short circuit until the moto...

Sedzy

<r><QUOTE author="toycrusher"><s>[quote="toycrusher"]</s>Interesting. Mod .8 is slightly different from 32p. Maybe try that?<e>[/quote]</e></QUOTE> Yep. A .8 MOD will work. Your talking a 0.00025" difference in size. (1/16 the thickness of a sheet of paper) I purchased some Robinson Racin...

Sedzy

<r>To get variable speed you'll need one of your ESC modules, with the exception, for a brushed motor not a BLDC. There are many on eBay/or the like with Pot controls for the speed adjustment. Integrating that into one of those RC BPROs won't be easy. From what I've seen, they're basicall...

Sedzy

<r><QUOTE author="Rob222"><s>[quote="Rob222"]</s>Sorry but I don't understand what you are trying to accomplish. Why do you need a high-current 0-30v voltage regulator if you have an ESC (I'm guessing a 24v ESC) ? The throttle signal input to the ECS is a 0-5 volt reference signal from the Hall effe...

Sedzy

<t>Swapping out the pot in the controller won't be a daunting task. Find a multimeter, and with the pot removed from the PWM controller, measure the resistance between the 2 outside pins/wires. That'll tell you what value to use. (the middle one will change as you rotate it) Just make sur...

Sedzy

<r><QUOTE author="Sven37"><s>[quote="Sven37"]</s>I might get one of these, anyone have any experience with random items like this from overseas? 320kgcm Servo. If rated properly it has about 2.5x the torque of ther servocity 805BB with mount and 5:1 gear. Plus it runs on 12v or 24v! ...

Sedzy

<r>Hi AllOverthePlace, Without having one of these to fiddle with, I don't know how the setup for the steering is, but your pictures shed nice light. I don't think you can change what it's doing by a mod. You'll have to completely swap out the electronics. (save the motors and wiring...

Sedzy

<t>Ugh.... Thanks for the insights guys. I think I need to stop, and take a step back and re-evaluate my drivetrain goals. What I want to achieve, and the method of doing it, aren't lining up. I guess to start, I'll do away with the traction bands, and leave the wheels as they are. (my 2n...

Sedzy

Awesome! Turned out great.

Well done on the tidy wiring job! The exhaust tips are a nice touch. :)

She's going to love it!

Sedzy

<t>Anything sprayed on will be quickly worn off by use. The closest thing that MAY work, is plasti-dip in the brush on can. I've used it at work, and it does dry to a pretty hard rubber finish. Smells like gasoline when its wet though. That would be the only thing I can think o...

Sedzy

<r>I've read a few posts, and questions about where, and how to remove/replace the push nuts on the PWs. I just removed my front tires to prep for paint, I now need (or should get) new ones. My spindles use <s>[b]</s>.437" Black ones.<e>[/b]</e> Instead of wasting my mon...

Sedzy

<t>Sounds like your on the right path. Ruling out the motors, and battery is a good start! put your ohmmeter back on where you read 78Ohms, and flip all the switches 1 at a time. If the resistance changes, look closer at that switch. If no switch causes any other resistance cha...

Sedzy

Good lord! Great build! I hope the new controller worked out.

I hope today went well with the reveal. :)

Well done!

Sedzy

<r>Thanks for the insights guys. <E>:)</E> Wesley: Your point about tires and plastic GBs is a good one. I need to take that into serious consideration when I'm at that stage. My goal for more speed is by a combination of; - A faster spinning motor (26.8K brus...

Sedzy

<t>Yep it's an F150. (monster traction) I was hoping to stay with 12V. I've sourced a LiFePo4 battery to replace the stocker, and buying 2 would be out of the question. From what I've read here from other posts, and other internet searches, I thought 24V really shed the lifespan off the m...

Sedzy

<t>Thanks toycrusher. I have considered the chain drive approach, but that means more fabrication... But it may be the best way to go. It will probably end up being cheaper. My speed goals aren't ridiculous. If I double the stock speed, I'm happy. I may also make up a roll bar,...

Sedzy

<r>Hello guys, I'm at a phase of my build where, I'm planning out the drivetrain. I've pretty much made up my mind on going with a brushless motor power plant. With that in mind, my knowledge in the PW gearboxes in this application, is lacking. (this is my first PW build - and from the gr...

Sedzy

<r>I know this post is a bit dated, and a solution was found. However, I checked into it anyway. The bubbling sound is what worried me. That Schumacher charger states nothing in the user manual about AGM batteries. AGMs require a slightly less charging/float voltage than a standard battery. I suspec...

Sedzy

Glad it's all worked out now. :)

The 80% thing is most likely calibrating for the RC signal. The RC transmitter I have, you can set your trim for centre, as well as channel values to tweak full fwd/rev ranges.

Sedzy

Sounds like the relay is connected with the [normally open] contact. Switch the relay wires so your using [com] and [normally closed].

That way the default condition will be on instead of off.

Sedzy

<t>You should charge them separately. Over time they will age at different rates. And that's when the problem comes to light. If in parallel: one will charge up more and shut off the charger, leaving the other still low. In series: (2x 12 = 24v charger) the added voltage won'...

Sedzy

<t>This is a pwm driver. The pot will give the circuit a variable small voltage, and a chip will convert that to a pulsed output for the mosfets, and the FETs will drive the motors. You can't use the pot like that. (from what I gather you have it connected). It's not to be used to direct...

Sedzy

<r>This is promising progress. <E>:)</E> I found the advanced config sheet for the usb software, and had a quick look through it. One thing I keep seeing, is to only connect 1 power source. So either the 5-6v from your RC Receiver or from an ext. power supply/bec. The actuator power would...

Sedzy

<t>The 100% thing is the odd bit. Can you for sure rule out the actuator? Set the lac aside and use a battery manually to pull the unit in. Disconnect the battery and your multimeter and measure resistance between both sides of the wiper on the pot wires. Cycle the actuator the other way...

Sedzy

<r>Ok first... Wow. I want one. I've been looking for a linear actuator, but they're all too slow. This is awesome!! 2"/second. <E>:)</E> I read the data sheet, and info on it. Going by your symptoms and issues, I'd start with the pot. It may be shot or a lose wire, making the lac think i...

Sedzy

<t>I'll dig a little more into this, and ponder some bucky... toycrusher's option of running a controller per motor would be the trick, but even then they'd probably still run hot as you'd be maxing out the FETs. It's doable for sure, and probably the best option for ease:cost ...

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